Terra Nova Travel

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Women's Tibet & Nepal Adventure 2000

Musings on a Nepal & Tibet Adventure

Phewa Tal LakeIn preparation for this trip, I became fascinated with Tibetan Buddhism numerology. Numerology of the West was already a part of my psyche, especially in relationship to the numerology of the Catholic Church-multiples of the Trinity. In my Footprint Tibet Handbook by the Tibetan author, Gyurme Dorje, I stumbled upon the Glossary. The etymology of words and numerology reveal the soul of a culture. Buddhism has no less than three synonyms for temple-stupa, chorten and chaitya. The number eight figures prominently in the Buddhist consciousness:

EIGHT (GYE)

Tibetan boyAt Tashilhunpo Monastery, ShigatseCoincidently on Christina Wilson’s most recent trip seven women accompanied her to Nepal and Tibet, two of the great Himalayan countries. Christina, who I dubbed “the rainmaker”, had assembled a diverse group of seven women, a sculptress, a homemaker, a once upon a time theatre directress, a computer saleswoman, a pastry baker, a para-legal and a jewelry maker. Although some members knew each other, their only one common connection was Christina. Two women marked the passage of their half century on the trip.

Having trekked a half dozen times in Nepal, Christina selected a less frequented area in the foothills near Pokara, Panchasi Lekh. The five day trek followed a ridge above Phewa Tal (a large lake) with a sweeping view of the Annapurna range (snowy peaks at elevations of 22-25,000). While without the complications of high altitude hiking, the trek did present its own challenges-muddy trails, leeches and some steep descents. On the final night the intrepid trekkers’ reward was their home stay in the Gorkha village of Sirubari during the height of the Hindu festival, Dasain.

 

Nancy with bellsNINE (GU)

Converging in Kathmandu the eight (Gye) and I, the travel agent, and the ninth member (Gu), all continued on together to Tibet. In Tibet we encountered not only the physical demands of a high altitude environment, but also those of a completely foreign culture and people. Barred to individuals without special connections, travel into Tibet requires that visitors travel with a group. The current minimum requirement is five tour members. It is possible to organize one's own group or join one with a "set departure" which should be prearranged prior to travel.

In Lhasa, we discovered the “formal” Tibet at the Potala Palace, the official home of the Dalai Lama, but Tibet’s heart is the famous square, the Barkhor, and its soul is the Jokhang Temple. We obtained unique glimpses of daily life at a Buddhist nunnery and a local carpet factory owned by our tour escort’s family. For the next three days we made our pilgrimage from Lhasa, on a bumpy, dusty road trip visiting the monasteries of Drepung on the outskirts of Lhasa, Tashilhunpo, home of the Panchen Lama in Shigatse and the fortress style Phalkor in Gyantse with the Nepalese style Kumbum Chorten. We literally dropped down into Lhasa over the Karola pass (about 17,000 ft), wending our way on serpentine roads. At the Karola pass, as a thanksgiving offering to the supreme beings we proudly hoisted our prayer flags a la Tibetan style.

DomaBut then there were ten… our guide, Doma. As a Tibetan, she and most of her family now reside in Nepal and the USA. Doma is about 5’1” in height with long black hair, a “moon” face with a mole, centered on her forehead that resembles a permanent tika. Like her famous countryman, the Dalai Lama, Doma, appears to be forever smiling. Although she is not dancer thin, she has a dancer’s sense of her body. Her movements are graceful and flowing. In Tibetan, her name, Doma, signifies Tara, the Goddess of Compassion. Doma immediately became one of us. She lead us through fields of leeches, bouts of altitude sickness, but most of all she gave us a better understanding of the “ INSCRUTIBLE EAST” through her ability to help our Western eyes “see” her rich cultural and spiritual heritage.

No adventure is complete without one that challenges the palate. Here are two of the delectable dishes Doma made for the 50th birthday party for one of our little band she hosted at her Kathmandu home.

Shiva StampBadam Santeko - Peanut relish

Place prepared peanuts, garlic, ginger, chillis, scallions in a mixing bowl. Add the juice of lemon or lime, oil and salt to taste and voila! you have Badam Santeko. Serve with cocktails.

kumaraApple Momos

Combine the following for the filling:

Dough:
2 cups of flour kneaded with just water and let sit for a while.

Roll out small flattened round disks (Try for thinner edges and thicker centers). Place some filling in the center of the dough and close the edges by pressing with your thumb. When the wrapping of the momos is completed, place in steamer and steam for 20 minutes. Serve hot.

All photos courtesy of Christina Wilson and Nancy Pole-Wilhite except Nancy at the prayer wheel by photo by Rosalie Brandon.
The stamp illustrations are by Reed Wilson.